New Year's Eve Fireworks—What to Do If Your Dog Runs Away

Fireworks - CC image courtesy of bortescristian on Flickr

New Year's Eve is almost here, and so is snow and freezing cold! You have to leave the house with several layers of clothing just to make sure you won't get cold. Does it sound familiar? Imagine if you are not prepared at all and have to spend some nights out there in a snowstorm. A runaway pet might face a situation like this.

It's very important to make sure that your dog (or even cat) is in a warm, cozy and secure area during the night of New Year's Eve. It's a lot of fun for people to put on fireworks displays, but our pets may not feel the same. Some more sensitive dogs or cats can get so frightened by all the noises that they decide to run away from all this craziness.

Tips to Prevent Pets From Running Away:

- If your dog is an outside dog, double-check any weak parts of the fence.

- Give him or her warm blankets for extra coziness in the doghouse. With all the noises going on on the streets, your dog might feel safer in his or her comfy hideaway.

- Play or walk with your dog in the afternoon so that he or she will sleep deeper at night. 

8 Tips If the Dog Has Already Run Away:

1. Don't panic! First of all, put some water and a blanket by the part of the fence where the dog escaped from, just in case he comes home. 

2. Call up some of your friends and start exploring the neighbourhood. 

3. At least one person should stay at home to keep an eye on the property and the street and to be available in case someone returns the dog or calls the number on his tag.

Dog hiding from fireworks - CC image courtesy of Dave Parker on Flickr

4. When out on the search, call his name out and have a treat ready. Be extra careful around busy areas, though. You don't want your dog to see you and start crossing the road with the risk of being hit by a car. If you spot him, try to approach him without his noticing you.

5. Don't forget to take his leash, water and a blanket with you so that you can help him right away when you find him. Read our cold weather tips for dogs. Additionally, a flashlight for searching culverts, etc., and a squeaky toy to draw him out can come in handy.

6. Make sure you have your veterinarian's or an animal hospital's number with you. Roaming the streets alone in the dark is very dangerous for any dog. Read about dog first-aid here or here.

7. If he's been missing for more than a day, start putting "missing dog" posters out in your community and run a listing in the local newspaper. Register him on helpinglostpets.com and post his picture on Facebook and Twitter. Ask your friends to share it so more locals will see it.

8. Contact the local shelters and let them know about the situation so they can call you as soon as someone shows up with your dog.

Pet First-Aid 101

Last weekend, TAGS hosted a pet first-aid course taught by veterinarian Tanya Varley from Morningside Pet Hospital. Twenty pet-loving people and about 14 tail-wagging dogs attended the all-day event at the Quality Suites at Bloor and Grandview.

Checking Merlin the greyhound's gums.

Through the course of the day, participants learned and practised such important skills as taking a pet’s vital signs (heart rate, respiration rate, temperature), bandaging a wound and performing CPR. Did you know that a dog’s normal body temperature is a little higher than a human’s and a temperature below 37°C or above 39°C is potential cause for concern? A temperature that’s too high or too low needs to be regulated slowly so that the organs, not just the outer body, can acclimatize. A hypo- or hyperthermic dog should immediately be removed from an environment that is too hot or too cold, and drastic measures (e.g., giving an overheated dog ice cubes) should be avoided.

While the discussion of vital signs was relatively tame, some of the scenarios Dr. Varley presented us with, such as prolapsed eyeballs (not uncommon in pugs, Boston terriers and bulldogs) and impalements, were difficult for the faint of heart, like me, to hear about and see pictures of. But we students all shared a common goal: wanting to do everything in our power to care for and potentially save the lives of our pets in an emergency. And that was enough to quell the squeamishness—well, for the most part.

Annetta practising bandaging techniques on Petunia's paw.

Many important topics were addressed: preventing and treating bloat, managing allergic reactions, inducing vomiting (and when not to), recognizing and dealing with seizures, and—so important for every pet parent to know—determining which symptoms can be dealt with at home and which require an emergency trip to the vet.

The learning experience was great, but spending time with fellow dog people and their dogs is always a major highlight of TAGS events. Most of the dogs greeted each other and their human counterparts with enthusiastic tails. Occasional barking sounded throughout the conference room, but for the most part, the dogs were all well behaved, allowing us to concentrate. By 2:45, after we humans enjoyed a wonderful lunch (included in the course fee), dog after dog lay flaked out on the fur-filled rug, and then around 4:10, all of a sudden, six or so woke with a start and barked up a storm, probably in response to a noise only canine ears could detect. They were easily calmed, and class resumed.

Nikki asking Dr. Varley a question.

That quiet hour and a half before the choral yapping was likely our best opportunity for learning, but it’s also when many of us, I suspect, felt tugs of distraction. There’s just something about a roomful of sleeping dogs that rouses a sense of wonder and love that can sidetrack even the most attentive of us.

Letting sleeping dogs lie.

Fortunately, Dr. Varley provided one enlightening bit of information after another, so refocusing on the task at hand was relatively easy. By the end of the day, we attendees walked away with the invaluable feeling of being better equipped to protect our four-legged loved ones when they need us most.

Pack Your Own First-Aid Kit

Here's what you need:

hydrogen peroxide
rubbing alcohol
Benadryl
saline/contact solution
gauze squares (to use for cleaning wounds/skin, contact layer for bandages)
non-stick pads (to cover wounds)
rolled gauze for bandaging
Vetwrap/klingwrap for bandaging
tweezers (in case of ticks, splinters, etc.)
muzzle, leash
digital thermometer
stethoscope (optional)

And if you missed the course, watch for another one in the spring so you can learn how to use these items!